We arrived around 5PM and went straight to see the Maqam, a tomb of Sheikh Hamad Al Nil (a 19th century Sufi leader who is worshiped today). Inside, it was just a couple of people praying and lighting incense next to the tomb. Some came to greet me and one lady put some perfume on my hand. They seem happy to have an outsider there.
Then, we went outside and the ritual began. It is a prayer, but to me it looked more like a celebration. It started around 6PM, when dervishes from other communities arrived. -This all happens inside the cemetery by the way-. They formed a big circle and with the sound of drums and repetition of divine names of God, the movements began. Trance is primarily used and attained through whirling around. But I saw some people also inflicting pain on themselves through bites and rolling on the ground. Most participants had a smile on their face though, and when I pointed that observation out to our driver (a local Muslim) he told me: “lady, the word dervish means crazy. Crazy in love with God!” :) At sundown, the ritual ended and the dervishes went to the mosque to pray in a very orthodox Islamic manner.
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